Goat Info
~~ Welcome to our Goat Information Station ~~
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We have provided you with some basic information to help you get started with the care of your new Goat and hope to help make owning a Goat a wonderful experience!
The Dwarf Goat is recognized in two Miniature Goat Breeds in this country originating in West Africa. There are several recognized breeds of Small and Dwarf Goats in West Aferica, and it is from these native African herds that the first "miniature" goats were imported into the United States. Although illegal imports are suspected earlier, the the first documented imports arrived in this country in the 1930's and 1940's for the benifit of several private and public zoos and preserves.
There were two distinct types of small goats imported, one being short, cobby, with short legs, and the other being more slender, with a longer body and proportionally longer legs and a more streamlined appearance. In the earlier years, if fact untill about the 1960's and 1970's , little distinction was made between the cobbier type that became the Africam Pygmy Goat, and the more dairy-type that became known as the Nigerian Dwarf Goat.
Over the years, selective breeding has resulted in the two distinct breeds that are recognized today in the United States. The African Pygmy Goat and the Nigerian Dwarf.
Dwarf/Dairy/Mini Goat Conformation~
A Dwarf /Mini goat's conformation is similar to that of the larger dairy goat breeds. The parts of the body are in balanced proportion. The nose is straight, although there may be a small break or stop at the level of the eyes. The ears are upright. The coat is soft with short to medium hair. Any color or combination of colors is acceptable, although the silver agouti pattern and color is a moderate fault (pygmy goat-specific markings).
Ideal height of Dwarf/Mini goat is 17" to 19" for does with does up to 21" allowed in some breed standards. Ideal height for bucks is 19" to 21" with bucks up to 23.5" allowed in some breed standards. Ideal weight is suggested to be about 50-75 lbs. Animals are disqualified from the show ring for being oversized for the breed standard and/or for other faults: having a curly coat, roman nose, pendulous ears or evidence of myotonia (a breed characteristic of fainting goats.)
Pygmy Goat Conformation~
The Pygmy Goat is genetically small, cobby, and compact. Its frame is clearly defined and well angulated; limbs and head are short relative to body length. The Pygmy Goat is full-barreled and well muscled; the body circumference in relation to height and Weight is proportionately greater than that of dairy breeds. The Pygmy Goat is hardy,Agile, alert and animated, good-natured, and gregarious. The legs and feet should work together so that the gait (tracking) is smooth, balanced, ground covering and effortless. Colors include:
Caramel Pattern
Agouti Pattern
Black Pattern
Dwarf/Dairy/Pygmy/Mini Temperaments~
Dwarfs goats are gentle, loveable and playful. Their calm, even temperament and engaging personalities make them suitable companions for all, including children, the disabled and the elderly. Even breeding bucks are handled easily. They make wonderful pets and great animal projects for young children in 4H or FFA. Breeders of other types of goats find their Dwarfs blend in with the rest of their herd and do not need special quarters; just adequate fending to contain them because of their small size. Many Dwarf goats share pastures peacefully with other livestock such as cattle, horses, llamas and donkeys. In fact, they will often improve a pasture by removing brambles, undergrowth (including weeds) and ivy (even poison ivy) that other livestock won't eat [Be aware there are plants that are toxic to goats, please ask me for a list].
Housing for Goats~
Goats should be kept in clean pens free of dampness, drafts and pests like flies and rodents. They also require adequate fencing due to their small size. Dwarf goats should not be housed in airtight buildings; they need to have ventilation for optimum health. For one to just a few goats, many owners find that an oversized dog house or two does the job. Pens or houses should be kept clean with fresh straw or wood shavings for bedding. Many owners find that providing a few "toys" for the goats provides them with hours of caprine entertainment. Tree stumps, rocks or large cable spools are great for "king of the mountain" games and jumping. Just be sure to keep them away from the fence to avoid giving herd escape artists means to roam your neighborhood!
Breeding Dwarf/Pygmy/Mini Goats~
Dwarf goats breed year round. Many owners breed their does three times in two years, giving the doe at least a 6-month break. Of course, this is a personal choice for each breeder. The gestation period for a doe is 145 to 153 days [about 5 mos.]. For the most part, Dwarfs are a hearty breed with few kidding problems. New babies average about 2 pounds at birth but grow quickly. Watch out for those little bucks! Bucklings can be fertile at as young as 7 weeks of age. Make sure you wean does and bucks separately to help you avoid unintentional breeding.
Does can be bred at 7-8 months of age if they have reached mature size. Some breeders prefer to wait until they are at least 1 year or older. Dwarf does can have several kids at a time, 2 and 3 being common with some quintuplet births occurring. Dwarfs are generally good mothers able to take care of their babies should you leave them to do the raising of the kids. They can also provide a surprising amount of milk for their size if you decide you want your own delicious goat milk or cheese.
Bucks are able to be used for service as young as 3 months of age and easily by the time they are 7 or 8 months old. Dwarf bucks are vigorous breeders but are gentle enough to be used for hand breeding (contained) or pasture breeding where one buck is available for several does as they come into estrus. Both methods are used successfully.
Health Care~
Dwarf goats, like all other breeds, need some basic care for good health and long life. Hooves should be trimmed regularly, about every 4-8 weeks or more often if needed. A properly trimmed and shaped hoof should resemble those of a kid goat's hoof. Vaccinations for tetanus and types C&D [called CD&T vaccine] are the basic types given. Check with your local vet for other vaccinations recommended for your area. Some experienced breeders may immunize their own goats; new owners and breeders should take their goats to the local vet for vaccines [or learn from another experienced goat breeder]. Worming should be done several times a year. Your vet can suggest any special supplements (such as selenium), additional immunizations and a recommended wormer and worming schedule for your particular herd based on your area and known preventative health measures.
Dwarf Registries and Shows
Dwarf/Dairy/ Goats are registered in 5 registries: four in the United States (NDGA, AGS, IDGR & ADGA) and one in Canada (CGS). Dwarf shows are growing in popularity and are becoming more readily available all over the country. Shows are fun, educational and a great way to meet other breeders and owners. They are a place to sell your goats or obtain superior stock for breeding. Shows or event information can be obtained through registries, local goat clubs and organizations, including NDGA.
Pygmy Goats are registerd through the NPGA who mission is to support the Pygmy Goat in the United States by collecting and disseminating information, protecting the breed standard, and recording their lineage through there registry.The National Pygmy Goat Association is the source of pygmy goat information in the United States. The Association maintains a registration database of animals which records the genealogy of the pygmy goat since it was imported from the Cameroon region in Africa.
In addition to the registry the Association maintains the Pygmy Goat Breed Standard. They also work to provide educational materials and events for the public.
NPGA shows too are fun, educational and a great way to meet other breeders and owners. They are a place to sell your goats or obtain superior stack for breeding.
"What's the difference between a Nigerian Dwarf and a Pygmy goat"?
Although they have similar origins, Nigerian Dwarfs and African Pygmies are separate and distinct breeds, with recognized differences. Pygmies are bred to be "cobby" and heavy boned. Dwarfs are bred to have the length of body and more elegant structure that's similar to their larger dairy goat counterparts. Pygmies are also primarily "agouti" patterned, with black, silver and caramel being the most common colors.
Dwarf/Dairy/Mini Coloring~
Color is one of the factors that makes breeding Dwarfs so popular. You can never be sure what color the babies will be until they are born; even then you can't be sure because many times their color may change. Main color families are black, chocolate, and gold with virtually every color combination imaginable being produced. Dwarfs can be dalmatian-spotted, pinto-patterned, tri-colored or just classy shades of solid jet black, white, chocolate or gold. Buckskin patters are also popular, described by contrasting facial stripes, a "cape" around the shoulders with a coordinating dorsal stripe and leg markings. Brown eyes are the most common; however, Nigerian dwarfs with china blue eyes are becoming increasingly popular and available.
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My Personal In-Put
The purpose of this information it to help educate new owners on goat care and proper management. Goats are generally hardy animals, and easy to raise. The key to their health and happiness is preventative health care. Because I can not oversee the care a goat is given once it leaves my property I can not be responsible of its health after it leaves. Vet health checks are always welcome before the animal leaves my property(At buyers expence). The health of our goats is our number one priority. Goats are herd animals and do not do well alone. They need companionship.
Your goat, or kids will be up to date on all vaccinations, coccidia prevention, de-wormings, and hoof care the day it leaves for his or her new home.
We give the CD&T vaccine once a year. Can be purchased at Tractor Supply for around $5 or so.
Trim hooves every eight/twelve weeks.
Pre-treat for lice once a month. You can use livestock dust, my preference is CyLence from www.valleyvet.com
I de-worm in the spring, twice ten days apart, I also deworm again in the fall, twice ten days apart. You can use cattle and swine injectable ivermectin (give orally at a rate of 1cc per 40lbs), safeguard given at a dosage of 1cc per 10lbs, three days in a row, repeat in ten days, or Valbazen at a rate of 1cc per 10lbs for only one day, repeat in ten days, available from
www.valleyvet.comA pygmy goat will generally eat about a half of flake a day depending on the size of the flake, about two pounds of hay per goat a day. I usually just keep out hay 24/7 even if pasture is available. I use grass hay, this is healthier for wethers. Very little grain is needed. They need fresh water and love warm water in the winter. They need a three sided shelter, with straw to keep them warm and protection from predators. Neighborhood dogs is their number one predator.
Goats need free choice loose minerals. Available at Tractor Supply. I personally use the Dumar Cattle and Goats on Pasture. Do not use minerals labled for sheep and goats. These do not have copper in them because copper is toxic to sheep, but goats need copper.
I treat all my babies several times for coccidia before they leave my property. I recommend pre-treating for coccidia twice a year or as needed. I use injectable dimethox 40% at a rate of 1cc per 5 lbs on day one, then 1cc per 10 lbs from day 2-7. This is not injected, but rather given orally by MOUTH. This can be found at www.valleyvet.comIt is always good to have an antibiotic on hand in case of an emergency. You can get LA-200, Duramycin or Biomycin to keep on hand. This is an injectable(Given under the skin). Make sure you have syringes (3cc) and needles(22G) on hand to use this medication when you need it. Anytime you use antibiotics, you have to follow up with probiotics to keep the rumen healthy. I use probios from Tractor supply. My second choice is yogurt with live cultures.
Normal temps usually run from 101.2 to 102.5. Anything that is over 102.5 I consider a fever, especially in the winter. Most vets will tell you 104 is not a fever, but in my experience, if I have a goat that has a temp of 104, it is off feed and not feeling very well.
Goats do get stressed easy. One thing that helps when they are stressed is vitamin B complex, available at tractor supply. When goats get stressed, they can develop pneumonia. If caught early generally responds to LA 200, fever reducer(Baby Asprin), probios and vit B complex. All available from Tractor supply. If taking a goat to the fair, I would recommend giving then a shot of LA 200, and follow up by feeding duramycin/terramycin crumbles (1/2cup per 50lb for 4gms/1cup per 50lbs for 2gm) ,for the duration of their stay at the fair. This will help prevent the shipping fever that a lot of fair goats get.
Check your local area and see if you area is Selenium Deficient. If it is you need to supplement with BO-SE (vet percrip(RX) or Selenium gel from Jeffers pet supply once every six months.
I am available 24/7 for any questions you have on your new goat(s).
Some good websites for more information is
www.kinne.net and www.fiascofarm.com .
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Feel free to contact us if you have any questions on the care of your Goat!
You can also check out: http://www.goatwisdom.com/index.html
http://www.ndga.org/about.html , http://www.wdga.org/
......for helpful additional information!